Adults only holidays: The rise of resorts, hotels and cruise ships where children are banned
Bedarra Island Resort off the coast of Mission Beach in Far North Queensland, a luxury hideaway with 12 villas cosseted between water and wilderness.
Picture this: reclining poolside with your beloved as a smartly dressed waiter slips an Aperol spritz into your orbit. There's sand between your toes, a book on your chest and a tropical breeze tousling your hair. Then a kid belly-whacks raucously into the pool and your zen is shattered.
Is it any wonder adults-only travel is on the rise? It may sound a little harsh but more and more resorts, cruise lines and boutique hotels are closing their doors to children.
It's not just young couples and retirees seeking out escapes away from tantrum-throwing toddlers and rambunctious rugrats. Parents, too, are leaving the kids behind, in the nicest possible way, for a well deserved less harried holiday.
One favoured destination is the five-star plus Sequoia Lodge. It opened in the Adelaide Hills last year, flaunting 14 luxurious adults-only suites with free-standing tubs and hot springs perched high above the Piccadilly Valley.
Then there's the equally luxurious Marramarra Lodge on NSW's Hawkesbury River, which since 2020 has been tempting adults as well as over-16s with gourmet wilderness escapes, accessible only by boat or helicopter.
The year before that came Elysian Retreat, a secluded kid-free cluster of oceanfront villas on Long Island in the Whitsundays.
This year, plans were unveiled for Seren, touted as the first adults-only luxury resort on the Gold Coast while next year, Virgin Voyages will debut in Australia, offering adults-only cruising here and in New Zealand (something that Viking Cruises, below, made its signature attraction internationally some time ago).
"What's changed in recent times is that we're starting to see a lot of product being advertised specifically to target that [adults-only] demographic," says James Kavanagh, Flight Centre's managing director.
Couples traditionally comprise 40 to 50 per cent of the group's customer base, as he explains, and the demand for adults-only travel is growing, as travellers put experience – think foodie stays and adventure travel – ahead of "generic holiday destinations".
Child-free resorts are typically high-end. Take Bedarra Island Resort off the coast of Mission Beach in Far North Queensland, a luxury hideaway with 12 villas cosseted between water and wilderness.
Owners Kerri-Ann and Sam Charlton say they wanted to create a relaxing, private island escape where adults could come and decompress.
"Given the boutique nature of the resort and how small it is, and how private it is, we wanted people to come here without having to worry about children jumping in the pool and screaming and running around," Kerri-Ann Charlton says.
Back in the Adelaide Hills, Sequoia's owner David Horbelt says the decision to make the lodge – part of the 12-hectare Mount Lofty House estate – adults only followed industry research showing an appetite for high-end, child-free getaways.
"The guest experience is really tailored to adults with degustation dining, wine masterclasses, cheese masterclasses, day spa and bespoke touring options," Horbelt says.
At NSW'S Marramarra, safety is a consideration, says general manager Brendan Millett with the riverfront location not suitable for children, nor the onsite activities which include romantic beach picnics, champagne and oyster cruises, and winery heli trips.
Okay, so let's stop kidding around and provide you with Traveller's choice of 10 adults-only travel experiences from Australia and overseas.
Likuliku Lagoon Resort, Fiji
THE LOWDOWN A honeymooners' eden, Likuliku Lagoon Resort is a languid couples' hideaway tucked in a horseshoe bay on the island of Malolo (ages 17-plus). The resort's 45 thatched bures are decadent but unpretentious, set just a few paces from the water. There are 10 overwater bures (Fiji's first) with direct access to the fringing reef, while the beachfront bures (some with plunge pools) have enormous outdoor showers made for two.
SEE + DO The modus operandi here is to do nothing at all. But Likuliku also tempts with a full stable of aquatic activities, from snorkelling, fishing, paddling apparatus and some excellent dive sites. There are also hiking trails, village trips, an infinity pool and day spa.
DON'T MISS Joining the resort's environment manager to learn about the plight of the Fijian crested iguana. The endangered lizard was considered extinct for 25 years before its rediscovery on the island in 2010.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Bures from $1400 a night including all meals, with discounts available for longer stays. The resort is in the Mamanuca Islands, 25 kilometres west of Nadi Airport, with transfers by boat, seaplane or helicopter. See likulikulagoon.com
El Questro Homestead, Durack, Western Australia
Credit: Timothy Burgess
THE LOWDOWN Clinging to the edge of sheer russet cliffs, El Questro Homestead is a refined springboard to the East Kimberley's rugged sandstone ranges, gorges and waterfalls. The 2.8 million hectare former cattle station has just 10 rooms catering for guests 16-plus, including a stilted suite with a wraparound verandah suspended over the Chamberlain Gorge.
SEE + DO Select tours are included in the tariff, including guided gorge walks, a Chamberlain River cruise, exclusive bathing at Zebedee Springs, and sunset lookout drinks. Horseriding, fishing jaunts, four-wheel drive safaris and helicopter flights are also available.
DON'T MISS The strenuous hike to El Questro Gorge. The route entails some rock scrambling and a water crossing, but it's worth it for the limpid pool and waterfall at the end.
MAKE IT HAPPEN El Questro is 110 kilometres west of Kununurra. The access road is 4WD only, with vehicle and air transfers available from Kununurra. Rooms start from $1995 per night, all inclusive. See elquestro.com.au
Hotel Tiara Yaktsa, Cote d'Azur, France
THE LOWDOWN French Riviera meets Moroccan medina at this upscale hotel overlooking the Mediterranean. Occupying a quieter nook on the feverish Cote d'Azur, the Tiara Yaktsa cascades down from the slopes of the Esterel Massif, with terraced gardens, Balinese sun loungers and an infinity pool that no child shalt sully. The 22 opulently furnished rooms and suites (ages 16-plus) have canopy beds, some with sea views.
SEE + DO Dining is a standout experience at Tiara Yaktsa, with Michelin-starred L'Or Bleu serving inspired Mediterranean dishes from an alfresco eyrie overlooking the sea. If you can extricate yourself from a sunlounger, the Esterel mountains beckon, or wander down to sister property Miramar Beach Hotel to access the private beach and day spa.
DON'T MISS Driving the stupendous Corniche d'Or which for almost 40 kilometres traverses the turquoise Mediterranean on one side and red rock cliffs on the other.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Tiara Yaktsa is in Theoule-sur-Mer, about 40 kilometres south-west of Nice. Rooms from $296 a night, including breakfast. See yaktsa.tiara-hotels.com
Islington Hotel, Hobart, Tasmania
THE LOWDOWN Snug in the foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington, the Islington Hotel is an exemplar of heritage preservation and modernist flair. The 175-year-old former stately residence has been turned into an 11-room boutique hotel. The heritage sandstone features remain, embellished with art and antiquities and cradled in a vaulted glass conservatory no little fingers can smudge.
SEE + DO The Islington is a convenient base for exploring Hobart's central sights, as well as kunanyi. You'll also want to indulge in the hotel's four-course degustation and high tea, served in the conservatory.
DON'T MISS A visit to the ravishing Museum of Modern and New Art (MONA) which can be reached from central Hobart via MONA's own high-speed catamarans.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Rooms from $469, including breakfast. See islingtonhotel.com
Viking Cruises
THE LOWDOWN You won't find any kids' clubs or waterslides on Viking cruise ships. The cruise line, offering ocean, river and expedition cruises to every continent, has a strict over-18 years policy. What you will find are stylish Scandinavian-inspired spaces, fine dining restaurants, a curated library, day spa, infinity pool and stateroom verandahs throughout.
SEE + DO Viking champions immersive travel, centred on maximising time in port to enable guests to connect with the destination. A shore excursion is included in every port, with expert lectures, cooking demonstrations and cultural performances rewarding curious travellers.
DON'T MISS Cruising to the frozen continent following Viking's recent launch of twin polar-class vessels, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Viking operates cruises in 13 regions, from an eight-day voyage on the Rhine to the new 138-day Viking World Cruise, departing in December and visiting 28 countries between Florida and London. See vikingcruises.com.au
Cempedak Private Island, Indonesia
Credit: Will Scott
THE LOWDOWN A mere speck in the South China Sea, the 17-hectare island of Cempedak welcomes city-weary travellers who make the voyage to the Riau Archipelago from nearby Singapore. What they get is a barefoot luxury island experience devoid of small humans. A huddle of bamboo-fashioned grass-roofed villas protrude from the rainforest like conch shells, each with a plunge pool overlooking a ribbon of talcum-white sand.
SEE + DO The island's virgin rainforest begs exploration and is home to monkeys, myriad birds and even endangered pangolins. Water activities abound, including snorkelling, kayaking, sailing and diving, and you might even meet a family of sea otters.
DON'T MISS A treatment in the spa, perched atop a cluster of granite boulders peering out over the sea.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Cempedak is in northern Indonesia, about 2.5 hours from Singapore, via the island of Bintan. Rooms from $540, plus $130 a person a day full board. See cempedak.com
Injidup Spa Retreat, Yallingup, Western Australia
Credit: Matthew Moyes
THE LOWDOWN Pared-back luxury and Indian Ocean panoramas are the hallmarks of Injidup, a clutch of 10 boutique villas set on a craggy coastline in Western Australia's Margaret River region. The kid-free accommodation includes self-contained one and two-bedroom villas and a honeymoon suite – all with private decks and plunge pools made for drinking in those over-water sunsets.
SEE + DO Injidup is intersected by the celebrated Cape to Cape Track, so a coastal walk here is richly rewarded. The retreat has no restaurant, but at its doorstep is a bounty of cellar doors, eateries and farm gates. A massage in the onsite day spa completes the pampering package.
DON'T MISS Ngilgi Cave; Western Australia's first tourist attraction is adorned with intricate stalactites, stalagmites and shawl formations.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Injidup is 40 minutes west of Busselton Airport, hotel transfers are available. Villas from $680, including a breakfast hamper and wine on arrival. See injidupsparetreat.com.au
Virgin Voyages
THE LOWDOWN Virgin took to the water in 2021, promising to disrupt the market with its kid-free brand of cruising that's high on sass and low on pretence. The first two ships, Scarlet Lady and Valiant Lady, have Caribbean and Mediterranean itineraries, while the third vessel, Resilient Lady, will head Down Under for Australian and New Zealand departures in December 2023. A fourth ship, Brilliant Lady, will set sail at the end of 2024.
SEE + DO Virgin wants to make sure "sailors" are well fed AND well exercised. Take advantage of the all-inclusive specialty dining (Virgin has shunned the cruise buffet) and enjoy unlimited free workouts. There's also a day spa and full roster of adult entertainment on board.
DON'T MISS Joining Virgin's inaugural Australian sailing, departing Melbourne for Burnie and Hobart (5 nights return) on December 11, 2023.
MAKE IT HAPPEN For itineraries and dates visit virginvoyages.com
The green o, Montana, US
THE LOWDOWN In the wilderness of Montana, enveloped by leggy pine trees, rests a scattering of 12 secluded "hauses", known as the "green o". The design-forwarded dwellings sit on the southern edge of a 15,000-hectare bison and cattle ranch, bringing a touch of adults-only comfort to the wilds of the American West. Each has an outdoor hot tub, and some feature fireplaces, wrap-around windows and skylights for romantic stargazing in bed.
SEE + DO The Blackfoot River snakes through the ranch, inviting fly-fishing, kayaking and wildlife-spotting adventures. Trail rides, hiking, rock climbing and clay shooting are also among more than 50 outdoor activities on offer.
DON'T MISS An ATV backcountry tour, passing through the gold rush-era ghost town of Garnet.
MAKE IT HAPPEN The green o is part of Paws Up Ranch, located 35 minutes east of Missoula Airport in Montana (domestic connections from Dallas and Los Angeles). Hauses from $4060 a night, including meals, drinks, airport transfers and a $500 activities credit. See thegreeno.com
Elysian Retreat, Long Island, Qld
Credit: Brooke Miles
THE LOWDOWN Elysian Retreat is a little slice of Fiji wrapped in the halcyon waters of the Whitsundays. Ten thatched villas with playful balcony swings hug a sheltered cove overlooking Conway National Park on the mainland. The eco-certified resort is made for romantic getaways and welcomes guests over 16 years.
SEE + DO Start your day with morning yoga on the pavilion deck, beat the midday heat with a massage and swim in the magnesium pool, and round out the afternoon with canapes and sunset drinks by the fire pit. Kayaks, SUPs and snorkelling gear are available.
DON'T MISS Taking a cruise to Whitehaven Beach and Hill Inlet, stopping off at secluded beaches for a picnic lunch on the way.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Elysian is a quick helicopter hop from either Hamilton Island or Airlie Beach. Villas from $1350, including meals. See elysianretreat.com.au
FIVE WAYS TO MAKE IT UP TO THE KIDS
Daydream Island, Qld
Become castaways on Daydream Island in the Whitsundays, where the kids can be honorary Reef Rangers, helping feed the stingrays, reef sharks and shovelnose rays in the 200-metre artificial lagoon. See daydreamisland.com
Disney Magic at Sea
From October 2023, Disney Magic at Sea has two- to six-night sailings departing Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane, and promising to be a floating wonderland of magical storytelling, princesses, superheroes, pools and play spaces. See disneycruise.disney.go.com
Turtle Island, Fiji
Turtle is one of the most exclusive kid-free islands in Fiji, but three times a year the resort lays out the buckets and spades for kids as part of its Family Time program. This is a stay kids and parents won't soon forget. See turtlefiji.com
Shamwari Game Reserve, South Africa
For authentic wild animal encounters, take the kids on a South African safari. Riverdene Family Safari Lodge at Shamwari Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape has a kid-friendly pool, nature playground and safaris tailored for little adventurers. See shamwari.com
Arkaba Just for Families
Get back to nature on a family walking holiday through the Flinders Ranges at Arkaba Conservancy, where the little ones can spot kangaroos, emus and wallaroos and sleep under the stars in an upscale swag. Family tours run during the school holidays (excluding summer) and include a night at the 1850s Arkaba Homestead.
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