Australia’s largest plant-based (and powered) supermarket opens in Newtown

Australia’s largest plant-based venue, Greens Supermarket, will open in Newtown on Monday, with a zero food-waste policy repurposing unsold produce into food for retired show animals.

The supermarket launches with more than 3000 vegan products, ranging from fresh produce to home brand goods, such as bocconcini hand-stretched with almond milk; ready-made cakes; and “eggs” made with lupin beans.

The Enmore Road supermarket has installed its own production facility and two adjoining eateries (set to open in mid-August): Kimu Sabi, an “unauthentic” sushi joint; and Hide, a teppanyaki bar hidden behind one of Kimu Sabi’s heavily graffitied walls.

Fresh produce that fails to sell will be moved into the production facility, where it will be used to create ready meals (think poke bowls, hot pies and sandwiches), or the restaurants, where the ingredients will feature on the menu.

Anything unable to be repurposed (and appropriate for animal consumption) will be forwarded to Zambi Wildlife Retreat, an animal welfare charity that acts as a “retirement home” for exotic animals used in the entertainment industry.

Not only does the policy lessen Greens’ contribution to the 1.3 billion tonnes of edible food wasted in Australia each year, but it also keeps prices down.

“Food waste is one of the biggest costs in running a supermarket, but if we’re able to repurpose every perishable item we can put that margin back into our products,” says Greens Supermarket co-founder Peter Varvaressos who, together with partner Sophia Stewart-Kasimba, moved into plant-based hospitality with Newtown restaurant Vandal Taqueria in 2020.

“We can’t price match the major supermarkets … but we’re as competitive as an independent can be.”

The idea was born out of necessity. When confined to his home during COVID lockdowns, Varvaressos, a recent vegan convert, took over shopping duties and quickly realised how difficult it could be maintaining a plant-based household.

“I thought we could just go to Coles or Woolies, but we had to travel to five different places to do our weekly grocery shop,” Varvaressos says.

“There was fruit and vegetables from one place, toiletries from another, and beauty products from a third … It was absurd, it just wasn’t feasible.”

After two years and many logistical setbacks, the couple (and Varvaressos’s mother, Maria Varvaressos) have finally built a supermarket from scratch. There’s green or red shopping baskets (to indicate whether you want help); hard-to-find vegan cheeses like aged Gondino ‘parmesan’ (made in Italy from chickpea flour and coconut oil); a fridge full of Simply Eggless (liquid ‘egg’ made from lupin beans); and many varieties of mock meat.

There’s also plenty of lesser known or “accidentally” vegan products, like Vegemite and bottled Coca-Cola from Mexico. Plus, a free sparkling water station and a little bakery section with fresh bread made daily.

“All of those delays had a silver lining, they allowed us the time to refine what we believe in and how we go about this thing,” Varvaressos says.

As more vegan products made their way into major supermarkets, Varvaressos decided to sacrifice the idea for a third restaurant, Cousin Sal’s, in favour of a dedicated on-site production facility.

“We saw the stuff they were putting out and thought, ‘We can do a thousand times better than this’,” he says.

“We’ve made our own range of cheeses and I’d put my ricotta up against any ricotta in Sydney. I’d say mine is creamier.

Sustainability became a focal point in the development of Greens, which will be entirely solar-powered (weather permitting).

Just 3 per cent of Australians follow a vegan diet, but Varvaressos hopes the supermarket is a welcoming space for all.

“We by no means advocate people eat vegan seven days a week, we just want people to come have a look, and see how much is out there,” he says.

“We’re changing the narrative of what people think a plant-based lifestyle is. It can be easy, accessible and affordable.”