Buffet, bistro or fine dining? The best places to eat on cruise ships
There are many ways to dine on a cruise ship. Sometimes with a sense of occasion — starched tablecloth, winking cutlery, a sommelier with a bible-thick wine list under his arm — because a slow four-course dinner as the sun fizzes into the ocean is one of cruising’s great pleasures.
Then again, sometimes you just want to pop open a beer and bite into a burger without budging from your pool-deck lounger. On occasion, you’ll happily dispense with a long, multilingual menu and opt for the relaxed, omnivorous ease of the buffet instead.
But however you dine on a cruise ship these days, you can expect a sophisticated experience. Certainly, you’re a universe away from a meal on Cunard’s Queen Mary in 1953, which started with chilled grapefruit topped with a maraschino cherry, continued with cheese-and-ham croquettes accompanied by boiled potatoes and broccoli, and concluded with an almond sponge pudding.
Elegant dining on board Ponant.
Today cruise-ship dining celebrates the world, follows the latest restaurant trends on land, and focuses on the detail: whether your carrots are heirloom, your mushrooms Tuscan or trumpet, your pork belly sustainably sourced, and your vanilla beans harvested in Tahiti.
The wine scene is sophisticated too. Many big cruise ships now have a wine or champagne bar, while at the luxe end you can choose from thousands of bottles of vintage and limited-production wines to accompany your meal.
As cruise passengers have become more international, informal, adventurous and demanding, cuisine on board keeps on rising to meet expectations, which it should: after all, food is a central part of any holiday experience.
As a result, cruise dining has become far more flexible. Main restaurants and buffet venues are increasingly sidelined to small upmarket restaurant alternatives that might serve anything from Japanese to Peruvian or Korean cuisine.
Relaxed options, such as pubs and share-plate venues on large ships, have also proliferated. So too have more relaxed versions of traditional cruise-ship restaurants on luxury ships. Even the formerly uptight, traditional steakhouse has been relaxing like a perfectly done tenderloin just before it’s served.
Indeed, Silversea has dispensed with a posh grill altogether, inviting guests to cook their own top-quality cuts of meat on a hot rock as they sit outdoors on the pool deck under stars and fairy lights.
The rising smoke, jumping fat, balmy sea breezes, buzzy vibe and laidback yet attentive service combine to create an unusual and heady venue on an elegant vessel. And it works: The Grill became so popular that the number of tables had to be expanded.
If you imagine cruise dining is all about blandness, overload, rigid set times and a lack of choices, then it’s time to take a gourmet holiday afloat and discover a highlight of the cruise experience. Here’s what to expect. Tuck in.
The main restaurant
The lowdown The chief dining space on cruise ships is the one guests use most regularly, and is always included in the cruise fare. That sometimes makes it an underwhelming default experience on big ships, which would rather have passengers splurge in specialty restaurants. But the best main restaurants – often on luxury ships – offer an ever-changing range of high-quality meals, with vegetarian and low-calorie options and popular “always available” staples such as steak and salmon.
Restaurant Cyprus on board Celebrity Edge.Credit: Michel Verdure
Top tables Celebrity’s stylish Grand Cuvee provides the best main dining on any larger ship, while on newer vessels such as Celebrity Edge, four main-dining venues lean alternatively towards modern American, French, Italian or Mediterranean cuisine. Regent’s Compass Rose is always outstanding, with attentive service and well-matched wines. The Gastronomic Restaurant on Ponant ships is impressive for a small expedition vessel.
What to order A dinner at Cyprus on Celebrity Edge might start with a cocktail based on raki or ouzo. Nibble on Greek mezze and grilled octopus, followed by slow-braised lamb shanks with feta and baby eggplant, or short ribs with apricot and olives.
A 10-night “South Pacific” cruise to New Caledonia return from Sydney departs January 3, 2024, on Celebrity Edge. From $2398 a person, see celebritycruises.com
The French restaurant
The lowdown A French restaurant signals culinary ambition, so most ships have one: sometimes a bistro or brasserie, more often a full-service restaurant with white-glove service and the formality levels that are rapidly fading elsewhere in specialty cruise-ship restaurants. Menus stick to the classics: expect dishes such as onion soup, foie gras, Dover sole, lobster bisque and duck breast. Always an excellent choice for an elegant evening at sea.
Top tables Silversea’s La Dame costs $US60 ($90), but delivers a chic experience and elegant service. Regent’s Chartreuse is exceptional and inclusive, raising even simple dishes such as souffle and creme brulee to lofty heights. Of budget ships, Disney’s Remy is outstanding. It costs $US125 ($190), but that’s a fraction of the meal price at chef Arnaud Lallement’s three-Michelin-star restaurant in France.
Dessert at La Dame on board Silversea’s Silver Cloud.
What to order At Silversea’s La Dame, start with foie gras with pear crisp and duck jus, or an unctuous veloute with mushrooms and truffle cream, followed by glazed duck breast with endive tarte tatin, or sea bass in lemon butter. The Grand Marnier signature souffle is a satisfying finish.
A 14-day “Auckland to Melbourne” cruise in New Zealand and Tasmania with Silversea departs February 1, 2024, on Silver Muse. From $8250 a person, see silversea.com
The buffet
The lowdown Buffets were once the centrepiece of cruise dining, and although now somewhat overshadowed by main and specialty restaurants, they still offer an enjoyable dining experience for those who like abundant choice (and quantity) and an evening of unfussy eating. The downside on big ships can be queues and lukewarm food but, for many, a slow meandering meal at the buffet is an eagerly awaited cruise experience.
The Terrace Cafe on board Oceania Vista.
Top tables Oceania’s Terrace Cafe demonstrates how this cruise line has some of the best food at sea, with a stylish assortment of upmarket cold and hot dishes prepared in small batches or on demand. Azamara’s Windows Cafe has notable buffets themed on various international cuisines, while Norwegian’s Indulge Food Hall has stations serving tapas, noodles, Mexican cuisine, Texan barbecue meats and more.
What to order The delights of the lunchtime buffet at Oceania’s Terrace Cafe include red snapper fillet, veal scallopini, roasted half-chicken, and a cold buffet of artichokes, Burmese vegetables and Tuscan lentil salad. Save room for chocolate buttercream cake or a mango-ginger sorbet.
A 10-day “Papeete to Papeete” cruise with Oceania in French Polynesia departs February 9, 2024, on Nautica. From $6850 a person, see oceaniacruises.com
The Italian restaurant
The lowdown If there’s a ship without an Italian restaurant it’s probably too small to fit one in. Everyone loves Italian food, so this is a cruise-line staple, although it can vary from a modest trattoria-style eatery to a sophisticated fine-dining establishment where you’re served Tuscan cuisine by waiters in white aprons. Dishes were once resolutely classical and mainstream, but are now getting more contemporary and more regional as travellers look for evermore novel dining experiences.
Top tables Manfredi’s inclusive restaurant on Viking ships is a stylish but relaxed space serving delicious and informal Tuscan and other Italian cuisine. Royal Caribbean’s Jamie’s Italian is overseen by British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver. Celebrity’s Tuscan Grille is terrific for meat and seafood and is fabulously perched for great ocean views.
Manfredi’s on board Viking Star.
What to order At Manfredi’s, start off with chilled asparagus with poached egg, parmesan and truffle dressing. The decadent Florentine beefsteak is perfect after a long day out and – as in any Italian restaurant – it’s hard to pass on tiramisu for dessert.
An 18-day “South America & Chilean Fjords” cruise from Buenos Aires to Santiago departs December 6, 2023, on Viking Jupiter. From $5999 a person, see vikingcruises.com
The steakhouse
The lowdown If you appreciate cuts of quality meat — from Black Angus and Wagyu beef to Berkshire pork — look no further than the steakhouse, and if you prefer Maine lobster or Dover sole then they feature too. Most ships (especially American ships) have steakhouses and, in a pleasing trend, they’re becoming increasingly informal and less country-club in decor. But don’t expect too much innovation: mains, sides and deserts generally stick to the classics.
The Grill by Thomas Keller on Seabourn.
Top tables The Grill by Thomas Keller on Seabourn ships has simple but outstanding food by a master chef whose meals in land-based restaurants can cost $400. Cunard’s Steakhouse at the Verandah has plenty of tasty marbled meats while, of the budget big ships, kudos to Carnival’s Fahrenheit 555, which is excellent.
What to order Start with crab cake or a New England clam chowder at The Grill by Thomas Keller, then get your juices flowing on a thick-cut prime New York trip steak with creme fraiche whipped potatoes and wilted spinach. And surely you can squeeze in the lemon meringue tart or ice-cream sundae.
A 24-day “Sailing in the Mozambique Channel” cruise from the Seychelles to Cape Town departs December 28, 2024, on Seabourn Sojourn. From $21,999 a person, see seabourn.com
The Asian restaurant
The lowdown Some cruise ships have Japanese restaurants but most have pan-Asian specialty dining venues that often take an all-too-predictable wander across the continent and tone down the spice. Australian guests, generally savvy about some Asian cuisines, won’t always be impressed. Nevertheless, the increasing appearance of Asian restaurants at sea does allow you a welcome change of pace, and those that work well deliver great flavours.
Regent Seven Seas’ Pacific Rim is the best Asian restaurant at sea.
Top tables Regent Seven Seas’ Pacific Rim is undoubtedly the best Asian restaurant at sea, and has very elegant, contemporary Asian decor and attentive service. Oceania’s Red Ginger does a scrumptious roast duck and watermelon salad, and outstanding miso cod. Koko’s Asian Fusion on Scenic Eclipse is small, but the food is delectable.
What to order Come back to Regent’s Pacific Rim several times and work your way through the menu. It’s all delicious, from the duck confit spring rolls to the Japanese pickled cucumber and seaweed salad, and from the Chinese pork ribs to the tom kha gai soup. One of the most popular dishes is the decadent lobster tempura.
A 19-night “Singapore to Sydney” cruise via Australia’s east coast with Regent Seven Seas departs December 22, 2023, on Seven Seas Navigator. From $12,363 a person, see rssc.com
The pool grill
The lowdown When you’re over fancy food and long meals and want to kick back with something familiar and easy, where better to head than the pool deck? Sit betwixt swimming pool and sea and tuck into staples such as burgers, hotdogs and chicken wings with sides of fries, coleslaw and salad. No need to dress up, and there’s always a bartender on hand with a beer or cocktail list.
Top tables Holland America’s new Dive-In at the Terrace Grill does hotdog and burger meat cooked to order with great toppings, but serves tortillas and tacos too. Guy’s Burger Joint on Carnival ships goes deliciously big on the cheese and sauces. Oceania’s Waves Grill is for lovers of luxe: lobster medallion, Kobe beef and salmon burgers are among the choices.
What to order Holland America’s Dive-In does a mean hotdog with mustard, relish and crispy onions in a poppy-seed bun, but the burgers are hard to beat. The Cannonball features a brioche bun stuffed with gouda, smoked bacon, caramelised onion, tomato and lettuce. The brown-rice veggie burger with tzatziki is tasty, too.
A 14-day “Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand” cruise return from Singapore departs December 9, 2023, on Holland America’s Westerdam. From $2349 a person, see hollandamerica.com
The bar
The lowdown Each to their own when it comes to favourite cruise-ship bars, and fortunately you’ve plenty of choice. Champagne bars, ice bars, tiki bars, whiskey bars, English-style pubs, rum bars, bars where robots mix your drinks, or bars for the wine aficionado: there are no end of places to enjoy a tipple.
Room with an underwater view: Ponant’s Blue Eye Lounge.
Top tables Ponant’s sci-fi Blue Eye Lounge lies below the waterline, with two whale-like eyes peering into the depths and hydrophones relaying the squeaks and groans of the ocean. Celebrity’s convivial Martini Bar has an ice-topped counter and bartenders with tricks. The bar on Scenic Eclipse has a dramatic tower of backlit bottles, and an outstanding selection of world whiskeys.
What to order How can you resist ordering a martini, shaken not stirred, in Ponant’s Blue Eye, a bar that ought to have featured in a James Bond movie — it even has vibrating sofas. Alternatively, settle in with a bottle of Charles Heidsieck champagne and celebrate your good luck to be cruising in fine times.
A 12-night “Cultures and Nature in Papua New Guinea” cruise return from Cairns departs March 3, 2024, on Ponant’s Le Laperouse. From $13,000 a person, see au.ponant.com
For great cruise deals, visit mycruises.com.au
Five great gourmet shore excursions
Michelin-star dining in France with Silversea
An excursion to Menton on the French Riviera offers an unusual chance to meet the chefs, bakers and gardeners at Mirazur, one of the world’s best restaurants, graced with three Michelin stars. A nine-course menu with paired wine showcases Mediterranean food and the heritage of Italo-Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco. Indulge at Mirazur on a Barcelona-Rome cruise departing October 17, 2023, on Silver Moon, or Lisbon-Rome cruise departing June 15, 2024, on new Silver Ray. See silversea.com
Australian wine with Celebrity
A nine-night “Australian Wine” itinerary on Celebrity Edge takes guests at Adelaide into scenic McLaren Vale, best known for shiraz, cabernet, grenache and Mediterranean varietals, where you learn about wine production and sample the product at Rosemount Estate before sitting down to lunch at Wirra Wirra Estate. Afterwards d’Arenberg Winery, with its uber-chic cellar door resembling a giant glass-and-steel Rubik’s Cube, provides another tasting. The cruise departs Sydney on April 5, 2024. See celebritycruises.com
Alaskan oysters with Regent Seven Seas
Regent’s Epicurean Perfection program provides various immersive culinary experiences. In Ketchikan, join the ship’s chef instructor for a visit to a farm where you’ll learn how sustainable oysters and kelp are grown, and how their taste is affected by varying water conditions. Later in the ship’s Culinary Arts Centre you’ll get a 90-minute masterclass in seven techniques for cooking the perfect fish. Regent has 37 Alaskan cruises up to mid-September 2024. See rssc.com
Gastronomy in Barcelona with Oceania
A full-day, chef-led tour in culinary hotspot Barcelona sees guests wandering through iconic La Boqueria market, established in the 13th century, before heading to Santa Catarina market. The ship’s chef explains how ingredients are used in Catalan cuisine. Then it’s time for a tapas lunch and a pastry. The tour ends in the ship’s Culinary Centre for a tasting of cava, the local sparkling wine. Oceania has 127 cruise itineraries to Barcelona until mid-2025. See oceaniacruises.com
Norwegian king crab safari with Viking
Viking’s Norway cruise sees you heading onto Sarnesfjorden to watch as fishermen pull giant crabs from traps. Some can measure almost two metres claw to claw, and it’s quite a sight to see the monsters emerge from the depths. Later guests visit an indigenous Sami tent to prepare and feast on the food. Viking’s “Into the Midnight Sun” itinerary departs in July and August, 2023, May and June 2024, and June and July, 2025. See vikingcruises.com
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