Nine must-do highlights of the Atherton Tablelands, Queensland
The village
The Gillies Range and the Atherton Tablelands.
Yungaburra, a 70-minute drive from Cairns, must be one of Australia’s best-kept villages, from its well-clipped verges to its baskets of flowers and restored heritage facades. It’s petite, but several cafes and boutique shops will delay you and, if you’re here on a weekend, you might catch the local band in full oomph on the green. Countryside for 40 kilometres to the south and south-east is the most beautiful in the Atherton Tablelands: lose yourself down the byways. See tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
The tour
Head out for the day with FNQ Nature Tours, whose owner James Boettcher – a trained zoologist – has infectious enthusiasm for the region’s flora and fauna. Spend the day hunting elusive platypus and tree kangaroos, enjoy the magnificent bird life, and find out why surviving patches of Gondwana rainforest are so unique. You’ll also learn how to spot the endearing forest dragon, and discover why it’s Boettcher’s favourite creature. See Fnqnaturetours.com.au
The waterfall
Millaa Millaa Falls.
Yes, it’s an Instagram cliche, but Millaa Millaa Falls is so lovely that you can’t resist, despite the too- close carpark and concrete platform on the water’s edge. The waterfall seems to gush from nowhere, lushy framed in a stand of rainforest and fronted by perfectly placed giant ferns. Wade into the water and strike your pose. You can easily combine this with nearby Elinjaa Falls, reached on a lovely rolling country road. See tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
The museum
Hou Wang Chinese Temple in Atherton, built in 1903 and now a National Trust property, is a reminder of the region’s significant Chinese heritage. The plain wood and corrugated-iron exterior contrasts with the elaborate wood carving, eruption of red and clutter of artefacts inside. Take the chance to chat to the informative volunteers. A small adjacent museum rounds out the story of early 19th-century Chinese settlers. See nationaltrustqld.org.au
The stay
A stay in the trees.
The winding road to Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat leads through voluptuous cow-chewed countryside to Wooroonooran National Park. The self-catering timber cabins aren’t luxurious, but comforts include a good bed, wood-burning stove and large bath. Gaze from your expansive deck towards Bartle Frere, Queensland’s highest mountain, or turn your binoculars on the abundant bird life. Several rainforest tracks lead to waterholes and giant gums. See Rosegums.com.au
The restaurant
Ask the locals to recommend a restaurant in Yungaburra and everyone points to Our Place, a relaxed little bistro with an open kitchen manned by chef David Norton. His wife Loren serves (and sometimes sings to herself) at the tables. Mediterranean-leaning, modern Australian dishes include salmon linguine, lamb rump and a great stack of grilled vegetables with bocconcini. See ourplacerestaurant.net
The swim
Lake Eacham in Crater Lakes National Park is fringed with bird-twittering forest. Startling, mirror-smooth emerald water invites you to take the plunge on a hot day after you’ve done the three- kilometre circuit walk. A flight of concrete steps makes getting in easy. You’ll find yourself swimming amid fish and turtles and, for an added frisson, might spot the solitary resident freshwater crocodile; don’t worry, it’s harmless. See parks.des.qld.gov.au
The pit stop
The main road bypasses the original heart of old Millaa Millaa, and most visitors, intent on the waterfall trail, zoom through without pause. But this is one of those inconsequential but pleasant villages where you can enjoy a picnic in Lions Park, check out a minute museum, pause at the war memorial, and enjoy good coffee and peach muffins at Barista in the Mist. See tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
The cafe
Skybury Cafe outside Mareeba is part of Australia’s oldest coffee plantation, as well as the nation’s biggest supplier of papaya. Papaya is used in many dishes, such as a tasty chicken korma, generously heaped Thai green papaya salad, and Cuban sandwich. The timber building is impressive, and so is the sweeping Tablelands view from the deck. Afterwards you can sample the coffee and liqueurs, and watch coffee being roasted. Say hello to Sabi, the friendly border collie. See skybury.com.au
One more thing
The Atherton Tablelands is accumulating a foodie reputation, and has several coffee plantations, distilleries, dairies, a pick-your-own strawberry farm, and a winery that specialises in mango wines; the sparkling version is a great antidote to summer heat. See tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
The writer was a guest of Tourism Tropical North Queensland.
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