This neighbourhood Japanese gem serves up a salaryman’s menu of ‘rip-snorting value’

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Wa Gyuto. Must be a steakhouse, he thinks. With lots of wagyu to eat. But the name actually refers to a Japanese chef’s knife with a traditionally slim handle, something that is close to the heart – and the hand – of chef/owner Andy Yoo.

After my recent high-flying omakase adventures, it’s a relief to discover a good, bustling neighbourhood Japanese joint that is not a hushed culinary temple and does not lace everything with obscene amounts of caviar, lobster and truffles.

Reviewing such expensive, rarified experiences is important, yes. But it’s just not as helpful as directing you to a bustling 40-seater in Clovelly that is rip-snorting value. Share dishes at Wa Gyuto are mostly around $15 and $16, and wines by the glass start at $11. If you’ve despaired of ever being able to afford sushi again, may I direct you to the nigiri list, on which tuna and salmon are listed at $8 and $9 respectively, and that’s for two pieces a time.

The dining room itself is unpretentiously neat, and there are no extravagant floral displays or works of art – just tables and chairs, shelves of wine, and a busy open kitchen to the rear.

It’s a salaryman’s menu of classic, everyday Japanese dishes that run from nigiri and maki sushi to various tempura, teriyaki and yakitori options. Adding interest is a four-course set menu and an oft-changing specials list displayed on a roll of brown paper hanging on the wall.

Tonight, those specials include a “sake tasting” ($22) of three panko-crumbed Merimbula oysters with a creamy slaw, matched to a glass of crisp dry Karatanba sake from Hyogo. It’s a fun way to start dinner.

Apparently a dedicated sake list is on the way, but in the meantime, a fresh and zesty Petal & Stem sauvignon blanc from Marlborough ($12) plays well with the crowd-pleasing spicy tempura prawn maki roll ($26). The whole thing is as long as my forearm; each piece tightly packed with prawn, avocado and chilli mayo. It’s generously topped with even more prawn and avocado, with four upright prawn tails forming crisp gondola ends. Small wonder it’s a crowd-pleaser.

The rice is well-shaped, glossy and lightly warm from the cooker, which makes all the difference in the world. I try wagyu nigiri ($10 for two) as well, but it doesn’t have the cut-through of raw fish.

Gyoza ($15) are well-made, the six plump, rounded dumplings showing off their crisped bottoms in a wash of not-quite-sharp-enough dressing. A lunchtime order of cabbage salad ($16) yields finely shaved cabbage loaded with avocado, onion, tomato, cucumber and wafu dressing. Even after some vigorous tossing, it still feels a bit bitsy.

There’s a tendency to sweetness here, but the basics are elevated with imagination and good kitchen skills. Andy Yoo calls his approach Japanese in an Australian way. “Nothing too sophisticated or fancy, but not too casual at the same time,” he says. The signature teriyaki chicken ($26) is a good example.

I groan inwardly when it lands on the table, thinking it’s just boring old chicken breast, but instead it’s chicken thigh, boned and rolled into something far more interesting. It’s awash in a smooth, glossy teriyaki sauce with a few charred spring onions on the side, and a bowl of that excellent rice.

And now for something completely left field: kombu potato ($17). With its finely sliced potatoes pressed into a crisp golden brick and topped with creme fraiche and salmon caviar, it looks as if it has wandered in from a French bistro down the road. Cute, but a bit lost.

A dessert of black sesame parfait with smoked macadamia ($13) has sold out, so we’ll never know.

Yoo chose Clovelly to open a restaurant because he reckons that post-pandemic, more diners will choose to eat locally rather than head for the CBD. With Wa Gyuto’s skills, sweet service and very welcome value, that’s looking more like a self-fulfilling prophecy.